2014 Charmes Chambertin

(Drouhin replaced one of its suppliers in 2014): Saturated bright, dark red. Musky aromas of raspberry, rose petal and smoked meat display some funky underbrushy reduction. Then pure, bright and concentrated but backward in the mouth, showing a serious tannic backbone for aging. Very promising for this bottling chez Drouhin.

The 2014 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru comes from two suppliers, but one was dropped and replaced after last year since they felt quality was not high enough. It was picked on September 19 and 22, completely destemmed and aged for 17 months in oak. I found this showing just a touch of reduction on the nose, but with encouragement it reveals attractive blackberry and bilberry aromas, a touch of violet with time. The palate is smooth on the entry, supple in the mouth with well judged acidity, a pinch of white pepper towards the finish that (like other 2014s at this stage) is structured so that it feels Mazoyères in style. I think they made a good decision giving that grower his P45 -- this is excellent.

17 months in oak. A new supplier here because they were not happy with the quality of the previous grower. Deep cherry red. Sweet cherry fruit on the nose but dark and peppery too. Firm, very fresh and more open on the palate. Elegant and so finely textured. Refined, embryonic, dry and dark-red fruit. A little austere at the moment but has great length and promise. (JH)