2014 Chablis Vaillons

(this was the only parcel picked before the rainy period on September 21 and 22): Pale, bright yellow. Very ripe aromas of peach and nectarine. Ripe, soft and fresh, in a distinctly friendly style; nicely concentrated but a fruit-driven wine of moderate nuance. (I should note that the new team managed to forget to harvest a portion of the estate's Vaillons vines, only discovering their oversight on October 12. Due to the clement late season, the grapes had gained only one degree of potential alcohol without a meaningful loss of acidity. The sample, of which just 600 liters were made, was similarly dominated by apricot and peach but in its exceptional concentration and combination of sweetness and penetrating acidity was almost painful to taste. This freakish cuvée , which showed a far more stony character than the normal Vaillons, will not be a commercial release.)

This too is distinctly cool and reserved with its pretty and airy array of citrus, iodine and ocean breeze scents. There is beautiful intensity and delineation to the delicious and energetic medium-bodied flavors that deliver solid richness and persistence on the well-balanced finish. This should amply reward 6 to 8 years of cellaring. Oct 15, www.burghound.com, Drink 2021+

Aromas of nectarine, menthol and dusty stone. Brisk, dry and uncompromising, showing terrific lemony cut. Makes an austere first impression but the texture is ultimately pliant for the year. Still, today I find more flavor intensity in the Tête D'Or. Yields in 2014 ranged between 40 and 50 hectoliters per hectare, according to régisseur /winemaker Olivier Bailly.