2000 Andre Beaufort a Ambonnay

It’s all there in Beaufort’s 2000 Brut Millesime Grand Cru. The wine positively shimmers on the palate with layers of silky-textured, perfumed fruit that come to life in a gorgeous display of class. Deceptively medium in body, the wine reveals superb clarity in a chiseled style, with a mousse that is exceptionally fine. Overtones of mint, licorice, lemons and flowers linger on the sublime finish. This is a reference-point wine for readers who want to know why Ambonnay is a Grand Cru Village. The Pinot character remains suppressed today but it will emerge in bottle. The 2000 Brut Millesime Grand Cru is one of the most elegant wines I have tasted from Beaufort. This is Lot 00A, disgorged 10/08. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020. Jacques Beaufort makes some of the most pure, unadulterated and highly singular Champagnes readers are likely to come across. Beaufort is based in Ambonnay, a village justly famous for the high-class Pinot Noir that informs his wines with such eloquence. In addition to four hectares in Ambonnay, Beaufort also owns 14 hectares in Polisy, in the Aube. Over the years Beaufort has converted his vineyards from conventional to organic and, more recently, biodynamic farming, a process he began after suffering a severe illness in the late 1960s caused by contact with the pesticides and herbicides he was using at the time. Beaufort’s approach to winemaking is equally stripped-down and non-interventionalist. The wines are left on the lees for long periods prior to being released, and disgorgement dates of various lots are clearly indicated. This is clearly a high-stakes approach to viticulture and winemaking that naturally leads to a wider degree of variation than is typically the case with more conventionally made wines. In essence, there is nowhere to hide from small mistakes or the capriciousness of Mother Nature. When Beaufort gets it right, though, the results are striking. The Brut Reserve Grand Cru, made from 100% Ambonnay fruit, is an excellent introduction to the house style, but it is with the Brut Millesime Grand Cru, also from Ambonnay, that the domaine truly shines. The vintage wine from Polisy, in the Aube, can be excellent. From time to time the estate releases small batches of late-disgorged wines that are superb. At their best, the Beaufort wines are exceptional, and well worth the effort of seeking out. Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880