2014 Morgon

Brilliant ruby. Energetic red and dark berry aromas show very good focus and suggestions of candied flowers and smoky minerals. Taut and delineated, offering lively black raspberry and boysenberry flavors that open up slowly in the glass. In a lively style, finishing with strong mineral cut and excellent, smoky persistence.

The 2014 Morgon has great transparency on the nose with red cherries, cranberry leaf and cold stone aromas - clearly less fruit-driven than the 2015 but nicely delineated. The palate is well balanced with fine tannin, citrus fruit and nicely poised with orange zest and tart red cherries springing up all over the place on the finish. Almost too good to cellar, though don't stop yourself if so inclined.

I sometimes feel like the "clean wine tyrant" because as a critic I am obligated to point out flaws when they exist no matter how subtle they might be or how few tasters are likely to be bothered by them or more likely, even care that they are present. That said I have to write for everyone's sensibilities and those obviously range from the completely insensitive to the completely intolerant and everywhere between those two extremes. To that end the nose here plays right on the edge of perceptible brett and while it is extremely faint, it is present nonetheless. The real question is whether it detracts from the drinking experience and in this case I doubt very much that the majority of tasters would feel as though the brett was sufficient to materially diminish their enjoyment of the bright red berry fruit, earth and spice-suffused nose. There is good verve to the utterly delicious and well-detailed middle weight flavors that possess very fine complexity and no trace of brett on the finish. The question this of course raises is whether the brett character will become more prominent with bottle age and that in very large part depends on the storage conditions so I would advise either buying this to pop and pour (and it's sufficiently forward to allow for this) or make sure your delivery and cellar conditions are faultless.