1999 Villa de Corullon

(($55; from steep, owned vineyards with 60-to-100-year-old mencia cropped at less than 20 hectoliters per hectare; aged in all new French barriques Medium ruby. Finer, more aromatic nose than the regular Bierzo) cassis, blackberry, blueberry, violet, minerals, iron and a hint of cabernet franc-like leafiness. Juicy, brisk and penetrating, with superb delineation and grip. More tannic than the Bierzo bottling but also more aromatic in the mouth; almost makes the regular wine seem heavy. Finishes with tongue-coating tannins and excellent length. A fascinating wine that conveys a strong impression of site character.