2005 Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques

There are five barrels of Laurent’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques Vieilles Vignes, from an appellation and source with which he has enjoyed a special relationship since the inception of his company. One cannot imagine a much better rendition of this grand cru quality site than the present wine. Redolent of black raspberries, soy, smoked meat, violet, and rose petal, it is incredibly palate-staining, with a seamless meld of chocolate-covered black fruits, smoked meat, toasted nuts and stony minerality, as well as an alluring persistence of inner-mouth spice and flowers. Creamy and fat in texture, this Pinot practically oozes out over the palate, yet retains verve and shape, the structural enhancement from whole cluster fermentation being deeply buried while the added nuance and fruit which Laurent claims are also benefits of this approach being clearly displayed. This should benefit from well more than a decade in the cellar and continue to strut its stuff well thereafter. A Patrick Lesec Selection, Paris Fax 011 33 4 66 37 67 23; Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327 0808