2012 Mazis Chambertin

Good bright, dark red. Aromas of blackberry, violet and underbrush show a musky reduction and considerable complexity. Juicy, tight and energetic but quite youthfully closed today, with strong acidity and a serious tannic spine giving the wine serious structural support. Aeration brought intriguing notes of cherry pit, mocha, coffee grounds, game and licorice. A step up in intensity and length from the foregoing wines at this address. Young, complex and built to age.

The 2012 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru has a tightly wound bouquet with dark cherries, bergamot, vanilla-rich new oak (around 90%) and a touch of forest floor. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded, quite corpulent entry, hints of dark chocolate and cherry liqueur infusing the red berry profile. There is good structure towards the finish with a fine grip and definition, although it will need several years to reveal its personality from under its wooden cloak. This is a burly but compelling Mazis-Chambertin that should be afforded several years in the cellar. Domaine Joseph Roty has a reputation for being a little “prickly” towards journalists. I probably would too if I were a winemaker. I guess it must derive from some troubled tete-a-tetes with Clive Coates many years ago and reputation spread. From my own point of view, I have always found the Roty family to be friendly and obliging of any requested visit. It is just that they are not going to lay out the red carpet – and nor should they. They are too busy working out in the vineyard, which means they have their priorities right. As usual, they had lined up samples on a table overlooking their clos of vines outside the family home. Phillipe Roty was indeed out in the vines when I called and so his mother guided me through the wines. She told me that the harvest commenced on 22 or 23 September (she could not remember exactly, but what’s 24 hours between friends?) Like everywhere else, their old vines especially were severely affected by millerandage and there was widespread coulure around Gevrey. All the fruit here is de-stemmed. You might describe the wines as erring towards more modern in style apropos ripeness levels and use of new oak, although they are extremely well crafted and as always, disprove the notion that Marsannay cannot produce great Pinot Noir. Check out Roty’s “Boivin” or “Clos de Jeu” for quite brilliant expression of this village at the northern extreme of the Cote d’Or. Their top crus can be outstanding and the 2012s offer a clutch of delicious, fruit-laden, complex wines from old vines that will age with style and grace. Roty is one of the great names of Gevrey and Philippe Roty and his team continues to quietly produce wines from the top-drawer. Importer: Wine of France (NY) and Atherton Wine Imports (www.awiwine.com) in California. Also Private Cellar, Robert Rolls, Corney & Barrow.

The 2012 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru has a tightly wound bouquet with dark cherries, bergamot, vanilla-rich new oak (around 90%) and a touch of forest floor. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded, quite corpulent entry, hints of dark chocolate and cherry liqueur infusing the red berry profile. There is good structure towards the finish with a fine grip and definition, although it will need several years to reveal its personality from under its wooden cloak. This is a burly but compelling Mazis-Chambertin that should be afforded several years in the cellar. Dec 2013, www.robertparker.com