2007 Toscana Sangiovese

The 2007 Toscana Sangiovese is a highly unusual wine from Gianfranco Soldera because it spent much less time in oak than is the norm. Essentially, the 2007 is a small lot of juice that was aging in tank when Soldera's cellar was vandalized in 2012. The shorter time in barrel has resulted in an exotic, racy Sangiovese with intensely forward red-toned fruit, highly expressive aromatics and an up-front, bold personality. Sweet red cherry, pomegranate, wild flowers and mint grace the racy finish. At times, the 2007 Sangiovese reminds me of a great Asili Barbaresco. Sadly, there are just over 2,000 bottles of the 2007 to go around, so readers who see the wine offered will want to act quickly.

The vintage was less favourable than 2008, lots of rain, and this resulted in a more careful selection of grapes and much lower yields. The harvest was on 12 September and the fermentation process – very regular – was completed 30 days after. The wine was aged for 75 months. Total dry extract 31.3 g/l. Just 1,800 bottles left for the whole world after the cellar vandalism incident. Thick and full and sweet. But lively – tastes like health juice. Very pungent and minerally. (JR)

A big, textured wine, the 2007 Toscana Sangiovese bursts on the palate with layers of deep, expressive fruit. Beautifully resonant and explosive to the core, the 2007 boasts stunning purity and fabulous overall balance. Firm tannins support a bright finish laced with red berries, sweet tobacco and underbrush. The 2007 spent longer in oak than the 2008, so it is closer in style to Soldera's previous wines. Today, the 2007 is a real thrill. Sadly, there are fewer than 2,000 bottles to go around.