2012 Le Montrachet
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Tasting notes
The 2012 Montrachet was the first wine that kicked off a bibulous week in Hong Kong courtesy of the munificent Mr. A. It has a gorgeous bouquet, perhaps a little too creamy at first but it seems to tighten up with aeration, almost steely when I returned to the glass after one hour. The palate is underpinned by a keen line of acidity, very primal (of course) with lovely salinity and a palpable sense of energy. This is one of those Grand Crus that got better and better in the glass, until you give in and admit that Dominique Lafon made a blinder. Tasted at a private dinner in Hong Kong.
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Opulent, open, and more developed than I’d expect at this stage. Almost feels a little baked, which is odd considering the vintage. The fruit is hidden behind oak today. In the mouth, this is the inverse of the 2013: broad to begin with, then tightening up towards a very long, extruded, more acid-led finish. It’s hard to read right now: either a slightly dumb bottle, or a dumb phase it’s going through. There is great structural proportion, and the wine improved markedly as it approached room temperature. (AH)
Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2012 tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Montrachet Grand Cru from Dominique Lafon is much more reduced on the nose compared to Marquis de Laguiche: waxier in style, less mineral-driven, sporting resinous scents that don't quite "sing" of Montrachet. The palate is fresh and crisp, a little shrillness on the entry with a sharp citric thread of acidity, finishing in more accomplished fashion than the nose augured with a saline aftertaste. It is quite amazing how this Montrachet magically gains more and more precision in the glass. It is a different style Montrachet to Laguiche but equally compelling.
Glorious richness and – at last for a 2012 – sweetness on the nose. Rich without being heavy. So enormous and true. Though with the dry finish that is characteristic of 2012. Warmth on the end. It should all come right in the end. (JR)