2013 Cornas Renaissance

As normal, the 2013 Cornas Renaissance is much more open and sexy than the straight Cornas. Its inky color is followed by similar gamey notes of beef blood, pepper herbs, olive tapenade and assorted dark fruits. This gives way to a medium to full-bodied, ripe, layered, and forward Cornas that has more depth of fruit and texture than most in the vintage. I’d drink bottles anytime over the coming decade, but it will for longer if you’re so inclined.

Tasted in components: #1, from Patou: Highly perfumed aromas of fresh red and dark berries, violet and fennel. Juicy and energetic on the palate, with good lift and cut to its black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors. Closes tangy and bright, with silky tannins adding shape. #2, from young vines in Reynard: Deeper and darker in profile, with black and blue fruit scents and a touch of smokiness. Sappy blueberry and cherry compote flavors firm up with a little air and show very good clarity. #3, from Petite Côte: Tighter and wilder on the nose, displaying intense dark berry and game aromas and a hint of white pepper. Taut and sharply focused, showing good lift to its bitter cherry and blackcurrant flavors. Finishes with a smoky quality, the gripping tannins building slowly.

Pierre-Marie also excelled in 2013, and his Cornas Renaissance offers fleshy, ripe, full-bodied notes of powdered rock, cassis, black raspberry and ground herbs. With time in the glass, it becomes dominated by its mineral-component and it gains mid-palate depth and richness. It will drink reasonably well on release, but have 15 years or more of overall longevity.||While it doesn't get any more Cornas than Clape, these wines also speak just as loudly of the domaine as they do of the steep granite slopes of the appellation. There's always something unique in these wines, something bloody, meaty and iron-like, and I've yet to find something similar in other wines. In my opinion, these wines are the epitome of Cornas. Looking at Pierre-Marie's 2012s, these are some of the most concentrated and structured wines in the vintage, yet they have enough texture to dish out plenty of pleasure even now. Pierre-Marie recommends drinking these over the coming 10-12 years, but I would push that window out even further. Also, while it's common to chase the top wines, don't miss his Cornas Renaissance in 2012. It's a terrific wine. The 2013s on the other hand will need short-term cellaring to become approachable. Pierre-Marie called these "very, very classic," and wines to keep. I certainly agree with him. eRobertParker.com.December, 2014