2012 Pouilly Fuisse les Champs

There are also three barrels of the 2012 Pouilly-Fuisse Les Champs, although in this year Christophe elected to mature in two new barrels and one used. It has a sophisticated, Chassagne-Montrachet inspired bouquet with superb delineation and minerality, a class act even at this premature stage. The palate is silky smooth on the entry with light honeyed notes at the side of the mouth. It is not as rich as some of the other 2012s from Christophe Thibert, but there is a compelling intensity and outstanding persistency in the mouth thanks to its delicate spicy finish. Superb. The silver lining of having precisely zero wines ready to taste at the BIVB upon my arrival was an impromptu visit to the village of Fuisse and Domaine Thibert Pere & Fils. As luck would have it, my first visit to a Maconnais winery on this trip provided a treasure trove of often outstanding wines overseen by brother and sister, Christophe and Sandrine Thibert. Christophe was brimming over with ideas, cautiously optimistic for his beloved region with the prospect of Macon’s Premier Cru denomination that would surely benefit growers like him. Upon the first introductory shake of hands, I experienced that “vibe,” a subliminal message that assures you are in the presence of conscientious vignerons. And so it was proven through the two-hour comprehensive tasting. Domaine Thibert Pere & Fils is one of the few Maconnais producers to really nail the idea of “selection parcellaire”: honing in on plots with common geological characteristics and bottling them separately. Out in the vineyard they practice organic viticulture and a lutte raisonnee approach and it was clear that the terroirs were clearly translated into the wine with the clarity of anything in the Cote d’Or thanks to Christophe’s minimalist intervention and judicious use of oak, often utilizing no more than around 10% new wood. This domaine has only really taken off in recent years since its modest beginnings back in the late 1960s. Most of their holdings are within the ambit of Fuisse, although it has expanded in recent years so that there are now 26 hectares scattered across Macon. Christophe cited 2007 as the key turning point, when his ideas really began to coalesce in terms of viticulture and focusing upon the mosaic of terroirs. While the entry level wines represent good value (and do not ignore their rip-roaring fruit packed sparkling Cremant rose), those seeking more intellect should head straight for the Pouilly-Fuisse bottlings that are often imbued with immense complexity and nuance. The only obstacle at the moment is the lack of space and their current facility is not so much cramped, but certainly “cozy.” Fortunately, there are plans to expand the winery so that Christophe will be more at liberty to extend elevage when necessary. Readers disowning white Burgundy because of prices or premox or both, should really stock up on these wines. Importers: several importers in the United States.