1998 Barolo Riserva
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Tasting notes
Haunting nose of roses and fennel. Medium bodied with the tannins in retreat. Very refreshing and evolved and it continued to mellow in the glass. Excellent balance. (JR)
Critic scores
Average Score
Daniel Thomases, Wine Advocate
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Barolo, and a blend of Liste, Cannubi and Fossati. Palest ruby. Earthy, minerally, almost iodine. Earthy fruit is slightly spoiled by a dusty, almost musty note. What a shame. (WS)
The Borgogno family is one of the dynasties of Barolo and traces its origins in the wine trade back to 1761, making it perhaps the oldest house in the entire zone. The approach, until recently, has been – understandably – ultra-conservative, at times resembling virtual immobility, but things seem to be loosening up in recent years and the Riserva wines are well worth looking for. The 1998 Barolo Classico Riserva, in fact, is outstanding, very sizeable in its expression of the roses, resin, plums, and anisette of Nebbiolo and endowed with a powerhouse palate, very rich but round and velvety as well. The fruit, minerals, and classy tannins of the close, the sweetness and irresistible texture make this one of the essential wines of the 1998 vintage. Drink: 2005-2020. Aug 2005, www.robertparker.com
About the producer
One of Piedmont’s oldest estates, Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, often known as just “Borgogno”, is archly traditional. Favouring long macerations and extended ageing in Slavonian cask, it is best known for its impressive Barolos, especially the prized late releases from its extensive library stock.