2009 Chablis Vaulorent

The 2009 Chablis Vaulorent is a big, voluminous wine. The old vines speak eloquently in deep layers of yellow peaches, stone fruits and minerals. This really blossoms in the glass, showing superb depth and pedigree. The finish literally stains the palate with masses of fruit. The ripeness and exuberance of the fruit is very well balanced by the wine’s persistent minerality and broad, expansive frame. This is a selection of the estate’s best fruit from eight separate parcels in Vaulorent, which itself lies within Fourchaume, the only premier cru on the grand cru hillside. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. This is an impressive set of wines from William Fevre and winemaker Didier Seguier. The 2009 harvest began on September 14. Seguier claims the date of harvest has become increasingly important in recent years relative to the past, as warmer temperatures create a narrower window for optimal picking times. All of the wines at Fevre are partially fermented in oak, ranging from 5-10% for the entry-level wines up to 60-70% for the grand crus. Seguier prefers neutral barrels that are on average five years old. In general the entry-level wines are fermented with commercial yeasts, while the 1er and grand crus are fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wines spend four to six months in oak, and are then racked into steel for the completion of their elevage, which lasts about 15 months. The wines are aged on their lees with no batonnage throughout the entirety of this time. Approximately 80% of the estate’s 50 hectares are farmed biodynamically, including all of the 1er and grand crus. The 2009 and 2010 vintages were not kind to Fevre in terms of production. In 2009, insects with very selective appetites damaged 20+% of the crop, while in 2010 yields were down as much as 50% because of widespread shatter during flowering. As is the case throughout Chablis, the 2009s look to be wines built on fruit that are best-suited for early and mid-term drinking. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, a vintage Seguier describes as more classic, with acidities that are in line with the estate’s 2007s and 2008s. Fevre makes both a Domaine range and a Maison range. I have listed the wines separately for maximum clarity. Importer: Henriot Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605 6706

Bright, pale, green-tinged yellow. Knockout nose combines lime, crushed stone and wild herbs. Enters the mouth sweet and silky, but its superb opulence is nicely leavened by surprising acidity and firm lemony cut. Impressive volume here for a premier cru, and more inviting today than the Montee de Tonnerre owing to its early sweetness. This, too, really saturates the palate, finishing with superb sucrosite as well as lively lemony grip that stimulates the salivary glands.

Again slightly herbal but also some lemon zest. Appetite-whetting aroma. Firm, well built, moderate acidity – just enough to be balanced, not enough to be exciting. (JH)