2013 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Axpoint

High-toned evocations of yellow plum and apple are tinged with Traminer-like brown spices, decadent florality and hints of smoked meat. The palate impression here is oily and, at 14% alcohol, voluminous. Tart rhubarb and biting white pepper emerge to convey an invigorating quality to the finish, which seems to have been reinforced by spice and piquancy from a bit of botrytis that no doubt also contributed to the wine’s high-toned aromatics and oily texture. While impressively rich and imposingly persistent, this lacks the clarity and primary juiciness of its Rotes Tor and Kirchweg counterparts.