2006 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

The estate's 2006 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is gorgeous. Sweet floral notes lead to a burst of dark red fruit as this energetic Montepulciano shows off its class. Smoke, ash, tar, licorice and a host of other aromas and flavors develop in the glass, adding further layers of depth and complexity. This is a decidedly muscular, intense wine that will require patience. As always, it is a touch rustic in its youth, but Valentini's wines have a way of acquiring elegance in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Valentini is one of Italy's cult producers, known only to a handful of loyal fans. This year I was only able to taste one new release, the 2006 Montepulciano, the first new vintage since 2002. It is a hugely promising wine, but one that is likely to test the patience of those lucky enough to find it. Importer: Domenico Valentino, New York, NY; tel. ( 212) 679-0822

The estate's 2006 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is gorgeous. Sweet floral notes lead to a burst of dark red fruit as this energetic Montepulciano shows off its class. Smoke, ash, tar, licorice and a host of other aromas and flavors develop in the glass, adding further layers of depth and complexity. This is a decidedly muscular, intense wine that will require patience. As always, it is a touch rustic in its youth, but Valentini's wines have a way of acquiring elegance in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. May 2011, www.robertparker.com