2011 Meursault Boucheres

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Bouchères from Dominique Lafon feels a little anonymous on the nose compared to the first two wines in a flight of Meursault premier cru. There is a subtle minerality at play, but it needs to be more assertive and expressive. The palate is balanced with touches of orange rind and walnut on the entry, but it does not really follow through with conviction and it dips prematurely on the finish. It may be undergoing a sulky phase, although I wager that the 2012 is better than this debut vintage.

(a moderate 12.7% alcohol with 20% new oak): Pale yellow. Fresh peach on the pure, lively nose. Pure, fine-grained and elegant, with peach and citrus flavors enlivened by minerality and complicated by spicy, leesy nuances. Juicy, nicely dry wine with a note of lemon zest giving tension to the finish. This was a vintage featuring ripe fruit with low alcohol levels, noted Lafon

The 2011 Meursault Bouchères, here in its first vintage, is simply impeccable. Hints of almond, hazelnut and light, floral-infused honey add complexity, but this is a Meursault built first and foremost on tension and energy. Comtes Lafon acquired this parcel in Bouchères as part of the Domaine Rene Manuel transaction. The parcel is located on the top of the hill, where the soils are the lightest.