2012 Soave Classico Superiore La Rocca

Bright gold, the first of this little four-vintage vertical to have less of a lemon-yellow accent. More petrichor on this nose as well. Smoky, smells like cold rain on hot black slate. Marigolds and saffron, singed orange peel and candied citrus peel. Intense, smoky, fragrant bitter citrus oils. Hay. Becomes more toasty as it sits in the glass – toasted coconut, pan-grilled hazelnuts. This has a looping lace-and-silver-wire structure, neither vertical nor linear, but still purposeful, determined, sharply delineated, edgy. The acidity is etched like cursive calligraphy into the fruit. Feels like silk-polished crystal. I tasted this wine out of a 68-ml sachet, shared half of it with my spouse, and have never before made the last 10 ml of a wine last so long. Oh to have a bottle of this to linger over by the fireside... So beautiful it made my heart ache. (TC)