2012 Gevrey Chambertin Les Combottes

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru aux Combottes has a slight reduction on the nose, but underneath lies pleasant dark berry, black plum fruit combined with damp undergrowth scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a brisk, quite pointed entry. The acidity is quite noticeable here, and perhaps it would have benefitted from more persistence, though it is redeemed by satisfactory energy and tension that will see it through. Patience required.

Palish medium red. Aromas of strawberry, spices and earth; smells more refined but less deep than the Ruchots. Then supple and nicely energetic on the palate, with sound acidity and strong spiciness making this seem like another vintage entirely. Lovely violet perfume is accentuated on the back end by pepper and herbal suggestions. I like the combination of the vintage's silky texture and this cooler site's spicy freshness. Comes across as less sweet than the Ruchots.

The 2012 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Combottes has a ripe nose of brambly red fruit, luscious strawberry and redcurrant jus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, saturated tannins. It is very pure and builds gradually in the mouth, almost by stealth, toward a precise, tightly wound finish that has very good persistency. After scheduling and re-scheduling numerous times during my November tastings, I finally reached Domaine Arlaud Pere & Fils for the first time in late January. But good things come to those that wait and I found much to admire in Cyprien Arlaud’s 2012s. The origin of the estate dates back to a wedding in 1949 when Joseph Arlaud married Renee Amiot. Among the wedding presents were tracts of vineyard, which is always more useful than a toaster or an ornamental clock. Joseph was succeeded by Herve Arlaud in 1982 and invested in new vineyards and the estate has now been passed to his three children: Cyprien, Romain and Bertille. The domaine has eschewed herbicides since 1999 and transferred the vineyards to organic viticulture in 2004, certified three years later. Naturally (no pun intended) they started embracing biodynamics in 2009, including the use of horses in the vineyard to reduce soil compaction. The winery was constructed in 2003 in Morey-Saint-Denis, on the “other side” of the RN74 away from the village, a less picturesque part of the appellation for sure, but with much more space to work in. The fruit is de-stemmed although Cyprien does play with whole cluster fruit subject to the growing season. Natural yeasts are used during alcoholic fermentation and oak tends to be 15-20% for village crus up to 40-80% for grand crus. When I visited the winery, it was after a long day tasting, but even so my senses lit up when I sipped the first sample. Here are wines made in a very pure and natural style, each evocative of their respective terroirs. Each wine was imbued with superb freshness and delineation; occasionally evoking images of the sea, at other times flowers. Cyprien explained how they wait for the optimal moment to harvest their vines, which can differ by days between different crus within the same appellation (see note for “Les Ruchots”.) Importer: North Berkeley Wine www.northberkeleyimports.com and also Raeburn Fine Wines (UK)