2012 Puligny Montrachet Les Perrieres

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2012 tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Perrières from Jean-Jacques Carillon has a withdrawn nose at first, but leaving it aside for 20 minutes it begins to open up and offer scents of lime cordial and even frangipane. The palate is a little oaky on the entry though the acidity is well judged. It actually improves in the mouth, gaining delineation and nervosité along the way, though there is a touch of bitterness on the finish. There is a lot of personality here and I would be intrigued to revisit this in four or five years time.

Healthy pale yellow. Fresh apricot and nut oil on the nose. Enters the mouth round and thick, then bright, integrated acidity gives a distinctly firm edge to the sweet apricot fruit. More powerful than the Champs-Canet but a bit more monolithic today and in need of time in bottle. But this rather upright premier cru really saturates the palate on the lightly tannic back end. This is 13.5% alcohol with 4.5 grams per liter acidity.

Some rich flowers and strong citrus acidity on the nose. Really something to get your teeth into. A hint of lemon oil. Solid and reliable even if no one's heart will beat that much faster as a result of tasting it. Substantial. Though it doesn't really last all that long. (JR)