2011 Beaune Bressandes

The 2011 Beaune 1er Cru Bressandes has a simple but well-defined bouquet with blackberry and raspberry fruit infused with cedar and a hint of rolled tobacco – masculine and correct. The palate is again, quite simple, but balanced with sharp red fruit and a slightly abrasive finish that cuts away too quickly. I suspect another twelve months in bottle will lend this Beaune a little more weight and harmony. Drink 2015-2022. Albert Morot was a negociant for its first seven decades until they acquired a parcel of vines in 1890. The gloriously named Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry has been responsible for the wines since 2000, when his aunt (great-granddaughter of Albert Morot), Francoise Choppin, retired. Henceforth, they have concentrated on domaine-bottled wines. Traditionally they held back on the level of new oak, although this has crept up in recent vintages as well as longer elevage. Fruit is handpicked, bunches totally de-stemmed, and bottling done without fining or filtration. This was a solid set of 2011s with the exception of an under-performing Beaune Toussaints. Otherwise, the wines exhibited judicious winemaking, clean, fresh fruit, and poised finishes. While they did not elicit superlatives this time, I suspect that more benevolent vintages such as 2009 or 2010 may be worth investigating. For now, these 2011s represent fine Pinot Noirs that deserves another 12 to 18 months in bottle. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083 and through Berry Brothers & Rudd (UK)