2008 Bonnes Mares

Smoky scents of Latakia tobacco and an alliance of fresh and distilled raspberry rise from the glass of Bize-Leroy’s Domaine d’Auvenay 2008 Mazis-Chambertin. The alternation of smoky and brightly-fruited (raspberry and red currant) elements on the palate has its counterpart in one of textural creaminess with almost electric vivacity. A clean sense of raw red meat and a scintillating floral dimension (violet and rose); hints of vanilla and brown spices from barrel; along with licorice and black pepper, all contribute to multi-layered and dynamic complexity in this remarkable Pinot whose finish seems to soar even as it lifts one’s spirits. The paradox of levity and density found in its sibling from Chambertin is perpetuated here, even if at a slightly lower energy level. There may be more opportunities for charm and seduction here – time alone can tell, and I would want to follow this (in my dreams I would follow it in reality) for at least the next 25 years. Lalou Bize-Leroy reports average 2008 Pinot Noir yields of 13 hectoliters per hectare, almost absurdly tiny even by her singular standards. Malos were a bit later than usual but were finished by summer, and the wines bottled – as usual – in December. Yet – also as usual – if their development was thereby in any way stunted, you certainly won’t detect it in the bottle today! The best of these display a sense of transparency; levity; and – even when rich and head-spinningly complex – a sheer sense of refreshment and invigoration that I have seldom encountered in other great wines from these sister estates. (Please note that my account of the complete 2007 red collection at Leroy was published in issue #189.) Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040