2006 Batard Montrachet

From the Puligny side of that cru, Jadot’s 2006 Batard-Montrachet from both purchased juice and grapes delivers vivid scents of saffron, jasmine, vanilla, musk, brown spices, and ripe peach. Vibrant – virtually electric – on the palate, yet all the while creamy in texture, here is a wine to make one firmly believe in the house proclivity to retain some malic acid. Blind, I might have imagined – at least until further reflection, and recognition of this wine’s sheer power – that I was drinking the Marcobrunn Riesling of my dreams. The persistence of fruit and spice here are as formidable as the foregoing features led one to hope. The impressive collection of Jadot 2006s were slow both in their alcoholic fermentation and their malo-lactic evolution, which director Jacques Lardiere considered all to the good when it came to imposing structure and building complexity in wines of such ripeness and relatively high alcohol. In any case, Jadot whites seldom complete their malo-lactic transformation, and if one seeks a vintage to demonstrate the virtues of that approach, surely 2006 is the poster child. Furthermore, anyone who thinks that there are no values left in white Burgundy today has clearly not given Jadot’s wide range the attention it deserves. (These wines were assembled from barrel for my tasting and/or tasted from a range of individual barrels. I have generally made note of those wines not owned by Jadot and its associates by at least indicating whether grapes or juice were purchased.) Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300

Pale-medium yellow. Deeply pitched aromas of dried fruits, honey, nutty oak, clove and iodine. Big, rich and sweet but lively, with good mineral firmness and sound acidity buffering the wine's alcoholic power (this is a solid 14%). A bit youthfully aggressive on the finish but very long. Jadot buys both fruit and must for this wine, all from the Puligny side of this grand cru.

The Bâtard-Montrachet vineyard lies just below and parallel to Le Montrachet across the breadth of the slope. The largest of the five Grands Crus, its 11.7ha are divided between Puligny with 6ha, and Chassagne with 5.7ha. Bâtard-Montrachet is generally ranked third in stature among these Grands Crus; its ownership is extremely piecemeal, the largest holding totalling 1.9ha. Maison Louis Jadot carries out a traditional vinification in primarily new oak casks, to underscore and highlight the qualities of this great wine. CS Very rich and dense. Lots of acidity and chew – not much flattery,. Surprisingly. A little low key. Just a bit too tight and introvert. (JR)