1988 Lynch Bages
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Tasting notes
Impressively youthful at 36 years old, fully delivering on the brief for Pauillac classifieds to be long ageing. The tannins are fully melted into the fruit structure, but still in evidence, giving shape and definition to the brambled autumnal fruit, layered with tobacco, smoked earth and pencil lead, with a cushion of mint leaf running underneath. Jean-Michel Cazes had been in charge since 1973, and by this point had transformed Lynch Bages into one of the wines of the appellation, beginning to rise above its 5th Growth ranking. The 2000 vintage took its time to come around, but is now at a great time to drink, even if there are still decades ahead of it. 70% new oak, Daniel Llhose winemaker.
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More reviews and scores
The 1988 Lynch Bages has a slightly more intense nose than the previous bottle six years ago, mainly black fruit mixed with subtle pencil shaving and chimney soot scents, a little Saint-Julien in style. After a few minutes, there's a touch of all sorts and fish scale. Certainly, it is less flamboyant than either the 1989 or 1990. The palate is now fully mature with pliant tannins and black fruit commingling with meat juices and licorice. It's a little sweeter than expected for a 1988 Left Bank on the finish. Overall, this is perfect to drink now. Tasted at the 1988 Bordeaux dinner at Noble Rot Mayfair.
The 1988 Lynch Bages is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc, plus 2% Petit Verdot that was picked at the beginning of October. It has a clean fresh bouquet with ample pure blackberry and raspberry notes, touches of graphite and tobacco, vibrant and very satisfying. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, crisp acidity, a little meatiness and cedar creeping in towards the finish and long and fresh from start to finish. This is a fine Lynch Bages from a period when Jean-Michel Cazes seemed to do no wrong. This would be one of my picks from the vintage given its market price. Tasted at the château.
One of the big surprises is how delicious this wine has turned out. It is a beautiful, classic claret. Dark ruby-colored with purple hues, it reveals aromas of dried herbs, smoke, leather, grilled meats, and copious black cherry and currant fruit. Medium-bodied, powerful, rich, and surprisingly evolved, this vintage has hit its plateau of maturity, where it should remain for another 10-12 years.
About the producer
Ch. Lynch-Bages is one of the largest and best properties in Pauillac, in the Médoc. While officially classified as a Fifth Growth estate, it regularly competes with the First and Second Growths when it comes to quality and ageability.