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Tasting notes
The Bouchard domaine 2006 Clos Vougeot (there is also a bottling from purchased fruit) smells of diverse ripe berries with hints of smoke and resin; comes onto the palate with ample, lightly-cooked fruit allied to multi-boned meat stock and dusted with brown spices. This site-typical Pinot exhibits impressive depth and saliva-inducing finishing savor, and while it may never be winsome or elegant, it is sufficiently structured, interesting, and viscerally compelling to merit following for at least half a dozen years. Director Philippe Prost emphasized the importance of flexible and surgical picking (with a crew numbering upwards of 300) and getting his crop to Bouchard's battery of presses within two hours via a fleet of mini-vans. He insists that relatively little triage was necessary on the domaine vineyards (as opposed to those under contract) and the estate wines are certainly predictably stronger as a group. (I have generally mentioned in the notes that follow which wines are from Bouchard's domaine and which from contract fruit, but have explicitly noted this as part of a wine's description, only if there are two versions of the same appellation within the present portfolio.) The fruit was crushed very gently and the wines racked only once – at 10-14 months, than usual – explains Prost, in order to guard against exposed or drying tannins, a policy which my tastings suggest was generally successful. Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6767
Critic scores
Average Score
Allen Meadows, Burghound
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Looks quite evolved. Rich and slightly malty. Pretty and lively. Well balanced. Good energy. Hint of umami! Very forward. (JR)
Medium red. Subdued but pure and complex aromas of red fruits, coffee, orange peel, pepper and flowers. Supple, lush and deep, with superb inner-mouth perfume to the red fruit, mineral and incense flavors. Wonderfully graceful Burgundy, combining superb energy and finesse, and finishing very long and aromatic.
Bright red-ruby. Redcurrant, plum, blueberry and smoked meat on the nose, lifted by exotic spices and flowers. Primary and delicate, with lovely definition and lift to the dark cherry and floral flavors. A suave, firm, very stylish Clos Vougeot with a vibrant, floral finish. Should make a lovely and classic example of this vintage. (Unfortunately, my sample of Bonnes-Mares showed an oxidative character and a finishing dryness, and clearly was not representative.)
About the producer
Bouchard Père & Fils is one of Burgundy’s oldest and most established wine producers. Founded in 1731 by Michel Bouchard, it is the largest vineyard owner in the Côte d’Or with 130 hectares of vines.