2005 Gevrey Chambertin Clos du Fonteny Monopole

Good ruby-red. Blackberry and violet on the bright nose. Pure and juicy but tightly wound; less obviously sweet and giving than the Petite Chapelle. In a more mineral, more uphill style. The tannins are strong but arrive late and then build. "The Chambolle of Gevrey in our cellar," notes Clair.

The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Fonteny leads with blackberry and charred meat aromas accented by hints of lily and vanilla. Positively palate-staining with juicy blackberry, charred meat, cherry pit, tactile cinnamon spice, soy, salt, and chalk, this superbly-lean, tannic yet fine-grained, densely concentrated wine throws itself energetically into a finish of superb length. ||Bruno Clair and his long-time cellar master Philippe Brun persist in rendering Pinots of uncompromising structure and fruit acid retention that are by no means long on youthful charm. Their 2005 collection was all still in barrel, from which I did selected tasting rather than (with one already assembled exception) tasting an at all precise reflection of the final blend. A small percentage of whole clusters was employed on the Gevrey crus, rising to 20% in the Clos de Beze. Brun decides whether or not to filter based on the character of the vintage and the result of trials. In 2005, he won’t. A couple of the Marsannays here were showing a rather awkward alternation between bright fresh fruit acidity and caramelized faintly wood tones, but admittedly, with larger cuvees, that is a tricky thing to judge prior to assemblange.||Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay Vaudenelles ($32.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Marsannay Grasse Tetes ($39.00; 85-87+?). Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802 Wine Advocate.June, 2007