2001 Maria Theresa

The 2001 Vinha Maria Teresa, Crasto's old vines field blend, starts off this issue's vertical. Seductive in flavor intensity--which has hardly dimmed--but also with fine structure, a real backbone still and an elegant mid-palate, this is a sexy beast that seems vibrant and youthful with many years left to go. There is a bit of an oaky tinge, especially early on, but that is par for the course here. That doesn't mean it skimps on structure or concentration. It seems rather brilliant with the main quibble being that it is a bit astringent. It doesn't have quite the refinement that some later years have. That power is mostly balanced by the sexy fruit, though, which never takes a backseat. If it is a bit hard edged, it also seems exuberant and exciting, not merely powerful. It may well continue to improve and it has plenty of life left, but let's continue to take that in chunks and stages. It is certainly safe for the immediate and foreseeable future. It will be interesting to see whether further aging tames it, but I would have no problem drinking it right now. If you do, a little air would help.