2011 Chablis Blanchots

The Raveneaus’ 2011 Chablis Blanchots mingles bittersweet floral perfume, salt- and iodine-tinged crustacean shell reduction, and piquant huckleberry in a bright, juicy matrix of grapefruit and lemon. Subtly oily in texture yet buoyant, this finishes with glowing intensity and outright refreshment. Plan to follow it through at least 2022. Isabelle Raveneau suggests that, especially in this vintage, the grand crus display not just the dividend in richness that would generally be expected, but also an advantage in energy, quality of acids, and ultimately age-worthiness. Lucky those who will be in a position to test that hypothesis over the coming decade! There is something disconcerting about stepping from their old cellar into the vaulted, spare stone and concrete expanse that now houses most of Bernard and Isabelle Raveneau’s barrels, but I have no doubt that the spaciousness of this new arrangement will have its subtle, positive influence on quality at what many would peg as the foremost estate in Chablis. And while I try to refrain from mentioning coopers by name (and in all but rare instances – with French tonneliers, anyway – succeed), I would simply point out that a comparison of the older and more recent barrels at this estate encourages me in the belief that changes taking place in that department, too, will only enhance quality. Bernard Raveneau describes 2012 as affording “lovely acidity and equilibrium,” and I do not doubt that its fruits at this address will uphold a reputation for improving in bottle and avoiding the premature oxidation that confounds wine lovers’ hopes for even some renowned and youthfully impressive Chablis. (Since it applies to all of my reviews of Raveneau’s 2012s, I suggest consulting my explanation in the introduction to this report of just how I utilize “+?” in rating wines before bottling.) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Bright, pale yellow. Subdued aromas of apple, pie spices and mint. Fresh and moderately sweet but without quite the refinement of the Montee de Tonnerre. Peach and apple fruit flavors are joined by notes of honey, menthol and minerals. Still in a shell following the recent bottling, this grand cru calls for four or five years of cellaring and will almost certainly merit a higher score down the road.

Today the 2011 Chablis Blanchot is not fully expressive. The Blanchot isn't a big wine, yet all the elements are nicely balanced. Overall, this looks to be accessible fairly early within the context of Raveneau. Flowers, white peaches and crushed rocks are laced together nicely on the finish.