1990 Bonnes Mares

What a fabulous wine the 1990 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru! Youthful in colour, it has beguiling complexity on the nose, secondary aromas percolating through the carapace of red fruit: truffle, smoke and a touch of peppermint. The palate is quite dense and voluminous, as you would expect given the growing season, yet there is sensational precision and poise. The final third delivers incredible tension and mineralité , hints of iodine and spice lending more complexity and the aftertaste continues on and on and on. I wonder if this is à point ? Then again, there is so much substance that you can easily envisage this offering another two decades of drinking pleasure. Stunning. Tasted at the Roumier verticals in Hong Kong and London with consistent notes.

I have been fortunate to drink Roumier’s 1990 Bonnes Mares on multiple occasions. It is always tremendous, as it is again on this night, with remarkable fruit intensity, depth and silkiness. The red cherry, plum, licorice and menthol flavors are racy to the core.