2006 Bonnes Mares
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Tasting notes
Clair's 2006 Bonnes Mares 2006 represents the first vintage for his family's newly-recovered share at the northern edge of this great site, consisting of one parcel planted shortly after the Second World War, and another planted in the 1980s. (This year, there are six barrels worth.) Bear in mind that the vines have not been worked meticulously the way he will work them, cautions Clair, but nonetheless this is impressive. Bright fresh red raspberry backed by the fruit's distilled essence, along with pungent, medicinal herbal concentrate inform a bright aromatic and palate display. While it lacks the richness or interplay of this year's Clair Clos de Beze or Clos St.-Jacques, it boasts refined tannins and impressive persistence. I would plan to wait several years before revisiting it, and count on enjoying within 10-12 years. Bruno Clair and cellar master Philippe Brun have a battery of 1,500 liter upright fermentation casks as well as larger ovals, which permit more wines to depart small barrels sooner but not have to go into tanks. And in 2006 (or for that matter 2007), they concurred that preservation of fruit and preventing the wood from drying it out were paramount considerations. (In fact, the Marsannay cuvees were still not yet bottled when I last tasted them in the Spring of 2008.) Picking here, by the way, lasted from September 23 through October 4, and the results certainly speak emphatically for themselves. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
Critic scores
Average Score
David Schildknecht, Vinous
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Bright medium red. Very pure aromas of wild red berries, red cherry, minerals and flowers, with smoked meat and underbrush nuances emerging with aeration. Smooth and sweet, but with a medicinal reserve to the flavors of cherry, flowers, menthol and fresh herbs. This boasts terrific energy and lift, not to mention a sappy, long, brown-spice-infused finish featuring chewy tannins that are not at all hard. Not particularly fleshy but explosive-and a lovely expression of this grand cru. Clair notes that this parcel is in the relatively tiny Morey-Saint-Denis portion of Bonnes-Mares, touching Clos de Tart.
First vintage. Very serious. Firm framework but lively fruit in the middle. Could do with a little more flesh (are the vines quite young?) but promises well. Nothing too artificial about this. To monitor over coming vintages… (JR)
Clair's 2006 Bonnes Mares 2006 represents the first vintage for his family's newly-recovered share at the northern edge of this great site, consisting of one parcel planted shortly after the Second World War, and another planted in the 1980s. (This year, there are six barrels worth.) Bear in mind that the vines have not been worked meticulously the way he will work them, cautions Clair, but nonetheless this is impressive. Bright fresh red raspberry backed by the fruit's distilled essence, along with pungent, medicinal herbal concentrate inform a bright aromatic and palate display. While it lacks the richness or interplay of this year's Clair Clos de Beze or Clos St.-Jacques, it boasts refined tannins and impressive persistence. I would plan to wait several years before revisiting it, and count on enjoying within 10-12 years. Dec 2009, www.robertparker.com