1995 Bollinger R.D.

Disgorged 7 March 2011. Very interesting comparison with 1996. Very hot summer. Fast maturation and harvest started 20 September. 1995 like was like 1988 and 2007 and 2008. The malolactic was not done so the acid is higher than usual but in a different style. Lowest pH ever in Bollinger at 2.86. Only 63% Pinot Noir. 17 villages. 82% grands crus. Yield 11,000 kg/ha, initial potential alcohol 9.2%, initial TA 8.7 g/l. pH 2.86, final TA 6.2 g/l, final alcohol 12.1% . Rather deeper gold than the 1996. Where the 1996 is austere and low key on the nose, this is exuberant and welcoming on the nose, though is not nearly as tight knit and youthful as the 1996 on the palate. The 1996 makes this look even a little slack! Though I'm sure when tasted in isolation it is hugely charming. Broad and even quite rich and open for a Bollinger. (JR)

Disgorged 15 Oct 2006. Very interesting comparison with 1996. Very hot summer. Fast maturation and harvest started 20 Sep. 1995 like was like 1988 and 2007 and 2008. The malolactic was not done so the acid is higher than usual but in a different style. Lowest pH ever in Bollinger at 2.86. Only 63% Pinot Noir. 17 villages. 82% Grands Crus. 11,000 kg yield, potential alcohol 9.2%, initial acidity 8.7g/l, pH 2.86, final TA 6.2g/l. Lots of acidity and rather simpler notes than there are in the 1996. Tingly. Passion fruit aromas. Polished texture. Lemon-syrup character that, ideally, will develop into something even more interesting. (JR)

This wine, 63 per cent Pinot Noir apparently, is extremely meaty and broad. This is the traditional Bollinger experience par excellent. Not to be drunk without food, I’d say. But a splendid bottle for a really carefully thought out – I have to use this word – repast. Dammit, this expansive wine is virtually smoking a cigar itself! Recommended retail price £85. (JR)