2001 Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile SGN
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This 2001 Riesling Frederic Emile Selection de Grains Nobles was harvested during the last possible days (before heavy rain) in early November. Apple jelly and plum preserve, honey and almost Gewurztraminer-like brown spices inform the nose. Surprisingly fat and broad on the palate for a Riesling, its ample acidity hidden, and with enormous concentration of baked apple, plum paste, malt, brown spices, and honey that never threatens to turn cloying or heavy. It is probably hiding more than it is revealing today. Only 1,800 bottles were produced, and hopefully few will be opened before 2020. The Geisberg is seldom conducive to noble rot due to its ventilation, but in both 2000 and 2001 it was possible to pick S.G.N. The Trimbach family continues to render some of the world’s finest Riesling; to uphold the principle that wine of Alsace (unless V.T.) should not taste sweet; to release wines only when they believe those wines say “it’s time”; and to ship 40,000 cases (or 40% of their production) to the United States. Notable developments on the occasion of my recent visit were the enhanced quality of their reserve level wines as well as outstanding performances with Pinot Gris. The wines on which I report below include some of those currently in the marketplace or about to appear, but most of the 2004s and 2005s will not be released for 1-3 more years. By the time early October rains struck in 2005, the team here had harvested everything other than their top Riesling. Yet, even though some of their most striking successes were picked unusually early, the upper-tier Rieslings here seem to have suffered neither dilution nor obscurant botrytis. The Trimbachs clearly rolled with any punches nature administered in 2004 (although by the time they harvested, abundant initial bunches had morphed into low yields), delivering Riesling of startling clarity and concentration that showcases its minerality and acidity. But in view of so much negative rot, they declined to attempt any nobly sweet selections. Importer: Esprit Du Vin French Wine Merchants & Select European Estates, 48 Harbor Park Drive, Port Washington, NY 11050; www.edvwines.com
Critic scores
Average Score
The Wine Advocate
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
This 2001 Riesling Frederic Emile Selection de Grains Nobles was harvested during the last possible days (before heavy rain) in early November. Apple jelly and plum preserve, honey and almost Gewurztraminer-like brown spices inform the nose. Surprisingly fat and broad on the palate for a Riesling, its ample acidity hidden, and with enormous concentration of baked apple, plum paste, malt, brown spices, and honey that never threatens to turn cloying or heavy. It is probably hiding more than it is revealing today. Only 1,800 bottles were produced, and hopefully few will be opened before 2020. The Geisberg is seldom conducive to noble rot due to its ventilation, but in both 2000 and 2001 it was possible to pick S.G.N. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate February 2008
(made from the third of three passes through Trimbach's holding in the grand cru Geisberg, on November 5) Pale medium-gold color. Exotic yellow fruits, roasted pineapple and white raisin on the nose. Hugely sweet but sappy, pure and focused. A large-scaled fruit bomb, with penetrating spice and caraway seed notes and electric acidity. Not at all overly sweet at 74 grams/liter residual sugar. A brilliant example of the ineffably pure botrytis of this vintage: even at SGN ripeness, this is still clearly identifiable as riesling. In the past couple of decades, this wine has been made only in 1989, 1990, 2000 and 2001. There's always a breeze coming through the deep valley of Aubeure, notes Pierre, so it's rare that any kind of rot takes root on this fruit.