2009 Gevrey Chambertin Evocelles

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles is deep, dark and sensual in its inviting layers of dark fruit, spices and menthol. Clean, mineral notes frame the long, intensely satisfying finish. This saw 100% new oak, but you would hardly know it based on the wine’s exceptional balance. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2049. Bernard Dugat farms 10 hectares of vineyards, 6.5 of which he and his family own outright. The Dugat-Py wines are breathtaking for their richness and depth. Despite their sheer concentration, the wines retain tons of vineyard and vintage character. These are some of the most viscerally thrilling, exciting wines I tasted on my recent trip through Burgundy. The only 2009 I wasn’t able to taste was the Pommard, which had been bottled just prior to my visit. Importer: The Sorting Table, LLC, 1700 Second Street Suite 380 Napa, CA 94559 ; tel: 707-603-1466

(from vines averaging 75 years of age, cropped at just 23 hectoliters per hectare; Dugat bought another parcel before the 2009 harvest) Deep red. Perfumed aromas of blackberry, licorice, violet and bitter chocolate. Wonderfully sweet and lively; more harmonious than the village wines, offering solid mineral-driven energy. The long finish features tongue-dusting tannins. This is very promising.

Vines an average age of 70 years old. 95% whole grapes. 100% new oak. Perfumed solid and with raciness! Juicy and lively much less plodding than the earlier wines, should make graceful old bones. (JR)