2011 St Aubin Blanc La Chatenieres

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Saint Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière 2011 from Olivier Lamy is endowed with exquisite precision on the Puligny-like bouquet that unfurls nicely with aeration, hints of smoke and gun flint, great focus and intensity. The palate is medium-bodied, gentle on the entry with touches of lemon peel and spice, a harmonious mid-palate and very good precision on the complex, classy finish. Excellent.

The 2011 St. Aubin Clos de la Chatenière is endowed with tremendous depth and texture, much of which comes from the 50 year-old vines. Tangerine, honey and almonds are some of many notes that flesh out in the glass. Juicy, layered and deeply expressive, the 2011 is another wine with a lot to offer. The finish alone will leave readers longing for another taste. Simply put, the 2011 is drop-dead gorgeous.

(Lamy picked one parcel "too early" at 12% potential alcohol, then the other two two days later at 11.9% "but with overripe aromas"): Pale yellow-straw. Ripe yellow peach on the nose, with suggestions of exotic fruits. A fat palate impression and a flavor of pineapple are nicely firmed by strong dusty minerality, which freshens and extends the sweet finish. Lovely lingering retronasal aromas of pineapple and spices. Very chewy wine, especially at this low level of alcohol. (The Derriere Clos Edouard was still finishing its malolactic fermentation at the end of May.