2006 Erdener Treppchen Kabinett

As in this year’s dry version of the site, the Loosen 2006 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett smells pungently of sassafras, along with lime and pineapple. But there any similarity ends: astonishingly, this has only 7% alcohol. Invigoratingly slate-tinged, fresh and lively, it is among the most delicate Riesling of the entire vintage from anywhere. Its infectious drink-ability, impeccable balance of sweetness, and refreshingly ripe and juicy finish would be very hard to beat absolutely anytime the temperature rises above 70 degrees Fahrenheit during the coming, climate-challenged decade – or in response to almost any other excuse. Needless to say, too, this represents an exceptional value. Ernst Loosen, Bernard Schug, and their team finished their harvest on October 6, before many growers had even begun. “Thank goodness we were able to bring 15 people up from Weingut J. L. Wolf in the Pfalz,” says Loosen about the hectic and heroic day-and-night harvest of 2006. “We’ve never before had 50 people out there in the vineyards.” “Those guys from the Pfalz had just plain had it at the end, I can tell you,” adds Schug, without a trace of humor. But he brightens when assessing the vintage as a whole. “I considered the 2005s the best collection of my career, but at this stage, I don’t think 2006 as a whole is weaker.” During the past three vintages in his collaborative work with Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington State, Loosen points out, he has moved on to their harvest after that of his own estate in the “cool climate ‘Old World.’” Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR; tel. (510) 864-7255