2010 Meursault Les Tessons

Bright, light yellow. Musky peach, fresh apricot, stone and smoky oak char on the nose. Concentrated and dense but pliant and accessible, with very ripe yellow fruit flavors nicely enlivened by harmonious acidity. Round, fresh wine with lovely length.

The 2010 Meursault Tessons shows considerable breadth and volume to match its superb, textured personality. This is an absolutely gorgeous village-level wine that easily outperforms its pedigree. It remains round, soft and enveloping all the way through to the finish, where hints of spice, slate and crushed rocks add the final nuances of complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2012. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Jean-Philippe Fichet. The 2010s have great energy and freshness. Much of that is, of course, the personality of the vintage, but Fichet is also among the growers who use a fair bit of larger 600-liter barrels, which helps maintain a fair amount of cut and sheer energy. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Struck match and liquorice on the nose. Very tense and very tightly coiled but without enormous follow-through. (JR)