2007 Meursault Les Tessons

The 2007 Meursault Les Tessons reflects a site that Fichet likes to points out was once rated (in his view correctly) as among the commune's best. This is subtle at every level, from its creaminess; through the intricate interviewing of chalk, salt, and hard-to-pin-down mineral nuances with citrus, herbs, pit fruits and liquid narcissus and lily perfume; to a finish of persistent, wafting floral essences, chalk, and mouth-watering, saline, meat-reduction savor. I'm convinced there is an inner richness here that needs time to come to fruition and will make this already superb wine a haunting experience over the next 6-8 years. Not without reason does Fichet call this -my premier cru.- The 2001, incidentally, tastes today rather like a cross between classic Meursault and a dry Vouvray - in any event, irresistibly savory, and testifying to further potential - while the hint of petrol in the currently riveting 2002 may put some tasters in mind of Alsace Riesling and others of a wine signaling its need to be enjoyed now. The 2004, 2006, and 2007 will - in my estimation - surpass these. Fichet considers 1999 an excellent vintage, and the oxidized state of some bottles of his Tillets - we batted .500 in his cellars this summer - a reflection of defective corks. Jean-Philippe Fichet's emphasis on retaining clarity and refreshment (via - inter alia - passive lees contact, high CO2 retention, and widespread use of demi-muids rater than barriques) positioned him to ideally avoid the pitfalls of 2006. But in 2007 his approach proved equally successful, resulting in wines that are in no way too lean, and that are for the most part youthfully expressive. -I'm only the orchestra's conductor.- comments Fichet. -Nature dictates the repertoire.- Nonetheless, he has shown a great talent for bringing out the best in each recent vintage.The Fichet 2007s - brought in almost entirely between the 10th and 14th of September - combine extract with energy and elegance, and he thinks they will continue to demand patience in bottle. Finished alcohols are mostly in the upper 12s, arrived at with, in Fichet's words, -very little- chaptalization. He encouraged long fermentations to enhance richness and complexity in his 2007s, although he says this meant walking a tightrope as regards volatility. For a few comments on how his earlier vintages are showing, see the conclusion of my note on this year's Meursault Tessons. The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA; tel. (800) 999 4342