2005 Meursault Les Tessons

(a blend of plantings from 1976, 1956 and 1954) Classic Meursault aromas of ripe stone fruits, hazelnut, minerals and butter (Fichet referred to the nose of this wine as the vitrine-or display window-of Meursault). Suave and velvety on entry, then generous and complex in the middle palate, offering a silky combination of fruits and minerals and the fine-grained, mouthcoating texture of Meursault at its best. Firm but impeccably integrated acidity really extends the finish of this sweetly sexy and elegant wine. Really remarkably good for village wine.

Low-key nose. Tight, focused, quite steely. Needs lots and lots of time but there is great tension here. Very, very sleek. (JR)

Ripe, perfumed aromas of peach, pineapple, lemon, vanilla, smoke and hazelnut; an essence of Meursault. Then chewy, dry and gripping on the palate, with lovely purity to the flavors of grapefruit, lemon, peach and spices. Finishes fat and long, with firm underlying mineral character. I tasted three components of this wine, including one in a 600-liter demi-muid that was the least evolved of all. Incidentally, Fichet's Gruyaches vines are actually in the portion of Charmes that's not classified as premier cru, yet he maintains that his Tessons holding is more favorably situated.