1999 Puligny Montrachet Les Enseigneres

This 1999 Puligny-Montrachet Les Ensegnières perhaps sums up why Coche-Dury is so revered. How did Jean-François extract such a stupendous wine from a Village Cru? It exhibits breathtaking precision on a nose that is actually reminiscent of one of Lalou Bize-Leroy's wines from d'Auvenay. Both the nose and the palate effortlessly convey so much energy and tension. There is the depth and length of a Grand Cru with a tangy, spicy finish that urges you back for another sip. Magus Jean-François in full effect!

It has been over a decade since I tasted the 1999 Puligny Montrachet Les Enseignières from Coche-Dury. Raphael poured this bottle blind at the domaine -- part of our ritual when completing a run through of his latest vintage. It has an intriguing bouquet of dried honey, cereal and mineral scents that are very intense. The palate is beautifully balanced with touches of passion fruit and melted wax, becoming ever more resinous and phenolic with time in the glass. The waxy texture is very attractive, although it feels just a little muffled on the long finish. I cannot see much reason to continue aging this, but it is drinking perfectly now.

This is a superb showing of the 1999 Puligny Montrachet les Enseignieres from Coche-Dury. The nose remains taut but very focused: yellow flowers, minerals, flint and lime. There is real energy interwoven into these aromatics, rendering it totally captivating. The palate is supremely well-balanced with perfect acidity, a little more malic than the ’96 served alongside and with the steeliness borrowed from a Salon vintage champagne! Edgy and tense, this is a Puligny that delivers - and then some.