1983 Grange

1983 was the year of the Ash Wednesday bushfire. 'A lot of production was not made.' A low-volume year. Last tasted in 2008 . This was the most powerful and concentrated of the five vintages tasted in this 70th anniversary celebration. Dense and rich. It reminded me of smoky beef short ribs and thick mulberry jam. Figs. Turkish coffee. Tannins that feel like heavy dark syrup. Cloves and menthol. Seemed to be glowering in the shadows, a bit ornery, demanding strong lifting muscle from the taster. (TC)

94% Shiraz, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley), Barossa Valley, Magill Estate (Adelaide), Modbury Vineyard (Adelaide) blend. From a drought year. Meaty and rich and much livelier than the 1982. Spice and herbs and cough medicine. This vintage is one of Peter Gago’s favourites, but for 15 years they didn’t show it because the Penfolds high-ups weren’t too keen on it. (JR)

Production: 7,950 cases Blend: 94% Shiraz/6% Cabernet Sauvignon 1983 was a difficult vintage in Australia as many viticultural areas were plagued by drought, followed by brush fires, and then floods. However, Penfold's has always been pleased with their 1983 Grange. It is an opaque, densely-colored wine, but it has consistently tasted tannic and backward. From a pleasure standpoint, it is the youngest and most structured recent vintage of Grange Hermitage. Although full-bodied with huge reserves of black fruits, it is impossible to predict whether or not the austere tannin will melt away. I choose to be optimistic and believe that with 5-6 years of cellaring the wine will exhibit a more harmonious blend of fruit and tannin. The wine is capable of lasting another 20 years. Note: The production figures shown are for twelve bottle cases unless otherwise noted. Importers: PWG Vintners, Monterey, CA; tel. (408) 655-4848, fax (408) 655-0904