2010 Chablis Mont de Milieu

Things take a more serious turn with the 2010 Chablis Mont de Milieu, which is a major step up from the preceding premier crus. Fruit, structure and acidity are all deftly balanced in this harmonious, impeccable wine. I especially like the level of nuance and pure delineation in the glass. A round, textured finish rounds things out in style. Here again, the seemingly opposite, contradictory qualities of the vintage are both on display. The Mont de Milieu is at once approachable yet taut. I find the combination utterly irresistible. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Bernard Billaud told me he views 2011 as a classic Chablis vintage, one of the few producers who holds that view. The growing season got off to an early start, with flowering that was three weeks ahead of schedule. The harvest began on September 10, as opposed to late September/early October, which is much more common. I tasted most of the 2011s from tank and/or barrel, except the Petit Chablis and Chablis, which were bottled in May 2012. Always eloquent, Billaud describes 2010 as a ‘grand millesime.’ Vintage 2010 at the domaine was characterized by a rainy summer with little heat. On average, yields were down 25%. Billaud bottled his 2010 grand crus in May 2012. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Pale green-yellow. Aromas of lime peel and spearmint, plus an exotic whiff of mango. Fat, sweet and spicy, with a slight warmth to the licorice and menthol flavors. I picked up a note of banana. Finishes with a faint bitter edge that detracts from its early appeal. The crop here was very small but I'm not wild for the balance of this premier cru.

Green apples on the nose. Very tart indeed but juicy and a slightly bitter finish. Needs time. (JR)