2003 Clos Fourtet

The 2003 Clos Fourtet is one of the handful of successful wines from Saint-Émilion in this infamously hot growing season. It was harvested between September 10 and 26 at 31 hl/ha. The nose offers macerated red cherries, raspberry coulis and fig jam, evidencing that summer's heat yet maintaining freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with surprisingly fine tannins, a dash of white pepper and a fresh, if slightly truncated finish. Reaching full-maturity at two decades, do not hesitate to open this upstanding Clos Fourtet. Tasted at the Clos Fourtet vertical in April 2023.

The arrival of the heat wave in 2003 was more abrupt and prolonged than in 2022 (although less dry), and you feel the exoticism to the baked spices, incense, truffle, tar, softening at this point with grilled cedar smoke, cured leather and smoked meat. Everything is underpinned by the salinity of the limestone, showcasing the benefit of the location, and the barely-there tannins are melted into the structure. Slap-bang in its drinking window, no need to wait any longer to enjoy. 100% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

This magnificent wine, which is just beginning to come into full maturity, boasts an inky/purple color as well as copious notes of blackberries, licorice, violets, and a striking chalky minerality. Full-bodied, voluptuously textured and stunningly pure, this great Bordeaux is one of the vintage’s superstars. The finish lasts 40-45 seconds in this majestic, multidimensional St. Emilion. It should continue to drink well for 10-15 years, but why wait?