2006 Volnay Clos des Santenots

A mere 1,000 bottles worth of 2006 Volnay Clos des Santenots (from the old vines in this monopole) made it through the gauntlet of Prieur's sorting tables, and the results were treated to the same 100% new wood as the estate's grand crus. This exhibits an almost severe degree of concentration, with tart but ripe cherry, rhubarb, pungent brown spices, and smoky, peat like notes combining on a viscous yet firmly-textured palate. It finishes emphatically, but without much charm or nuance, and with the effect of the extra measure of wood seemingly tipping the scales away from juicy primary fruit satisfaction. That said, here is a formidable Pinot that will be well worth revisiting in 2010 or 2011 and should not succumb to old age for at least a decade. What's more, it's certainly possible that the wine would have appeared to me more expressive if given another several weeks post-bottling. Enologist Nadine Gublin reports that the Prieur team performed a severe triage of 2006 Pinot – especially from the Cote de Beaune – both in the vineyards and on tables. The fine results speak for themselves, boasting (with one exception) purity of fruit and complexity, as well as a range of distinctively 2006 virtues. Their Chambertin – which, like the wine from their other grand crus, had been assembled but not yet bottled when I last tasted them – presented a special challenge due to the degree to which the Prieur parcels were damaged by hail, and a decision was made to declassify even the small amount of fruit that was vinified. The Pinot crop was harvested at 12.5-13.5% potential alcohol; required no adjustment; and was all destemmed. The wines were (or will for the most part have been) lightly plaque-filtered. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700