2008 Echezeaux

In a departure from Forey norms, the 2008 Echezeaux hasn’t digested its new wood especially well, displaying slightly detached resinous and caramelized element and leaving behind a few splinters. Abstracting from that – and hopefully the aforementioned elements will integrate – the many virtues on display here include admirably ripe dark cherry and cassis tinged with nutmeg and star anise; impressive, sappy mid-palate concentration; and a gripping finish. In the cellar, this is going to require patience, plus some luck. If the wood backs away, it could have a glorious dozen or more year future. Regis Forey’s 2008s enjoyed up to a month of skin contact (including cold soaks). He punched down only sparingly at the onset of fermentation – then heated the vats at the tail end in an effort to fatten the wines a bit. They finished malo in mi-summer and were racked twice – the second time in December and into tank – to help clarify them sufficiently so that he would not feel it necessary to filter. Considering how the fruit looked at harvest, Forey says he was amazed by how well his 2007s turned out. That was his view already by the time I first tasted them, coming off of early malos in late winter 2008; and in bottle they preserve the bright fruit that many 07s exhibited early on but which was in so many instances dulled or muddied meantime. As is now routine here, the village wines (and Bourgogne) were rendered almost entirely in demi-muids of varied provenance (including even a smidgeon of American oak) but always, says Forey, “very slowly-toasted, without touching the flame.” This size permits him to utilize 50% new wood, but with less surface contact per volume. It’s hard to argue with the approach, given Forey’s consistent excellence of village-level results. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Deep red-ruby. Pretty aromas and flavors of cassis, violet and minerals. Sweet and stylish, and already conveying a lot of personality. The wine's lively acids and fruity Tellicherry pepper element give it penetration along with noteworthy definition and finesse. Forey finds this to be a round style for the year, but today I'm more aware of the wine's power and aging potential than its volume. Finishes firmly tannic and long.