1996 Echezeaux

Revealing a dark ruby color and, a juniper-smoked bacon and juicy red and black fruit aromas, (it has to be the oak), this wine is, once again, a great wine. Its super-elegant, feminine, medium-to-full-bodied, and profound character offers delightful layers of cherries, raspberries, and currants intermingled with toasted and grilled oak. This beautifully ripe, highly-detailed, and focused wine is harmonious, admirably long, and extremely well-crafted. Drink it between 2003 and 2010. Why this estate has not attracted more attention from lovers of red Burgundy escapes me. Readers are well-advised to make an effort to find its fairly priced and delicious wines. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-65-42-93), a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-84-38-22), various American importers. Also imported by Atherton Wine Imports, Atherton, CA; tel (415) 328-6639.