1995 Corton Charlemagne

One of the more expressive wines of the night, the 1995 Corton-Charlemagne is now showing the softer contours and texture of a wine that is approaching maturity. Dried pear, sage, hazelnut and menthol shape the inviting, silky finish. There is a good bit of Coche precision, but the 1995 also presents distinctly tropical overtones that aren’t often seen in the Charlemagne. The 1995 is best enjoyed over the next handful of years, as it doesn’t quite have the structure of the very best years. Still, how many white Burgundies from the mid-1990s are this alive at age twenty? Not many.

Much less powerful nose than the 1996. Quite low-key on the nose though obviously big. Not finely etched but bright and gleaming. Mass and fruit rather than elegance. Not obviously Coche-Dury on nose with a slight edge of alcohol and no lift. But, a good edge of acidity and some structure. Quite long but very, very awkward now (in 1999). (JR)