2006 Corton Charlemagne

This wine seemed very much more evolved and softer than the 2007 and 2008 served alongside. The acidity was so much lower than the Olivier Leflaive 2007 that the wine almost seemed soft and sweet. Absolutely ready to drink. (JR)

The Jadot 2006 Corton Charlemagne fermented at what used to be called a glacial pace. Any doubts about the advisability of showing it on the heels of the other grand crus in this collection were largely dispelled by a clarion aromatic fanfare of citrus and herbs; a tactile, quarry-like depth and density of crushed stone on the palate; and a finish of prodigious length, scrupulous pristinity, and electric vivacity. As this opens up, a sense of sheer sweet pit fruit emerges such as one seldom encounters from this appellation, and so do saline, savory sides to its minerality that will add to the fascination at table and over a decade or more of bottle maturation. Given its price and availability – there are all of 33 barrels worth – this is an indulgence in grand cru pedigree that a significant number of consumers should be able to enjoy, even perhaps especially in hard times. The impressive collection of Jadot 2006s were slow both in their alcoholic fermentation and their malo-lactic evolution, which director Jacques Lardiere considered all to the good when it came to imposing structure and building complexity in wines of such ripeness and relatively high alcohol. In any case, Jadot whites seldom complete their malo-lactic transformation, and if one seeks a vintage to demonstrate the virtues of that approach, surely 2006 is the poster child. Furthermore, anyone who thinks that there are no values left in white Burgundy today has clearly not given Jadot’s wide range the attention it deserves. (These wines were assembled from barrel for my tasting and/or tasted from a range of individual barrels. I have generally made note of those wines not owned by Jadot and its associates by at least indicating whether grapes or juice were purchased.) Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300

Good bright, pale yellow. Captivating nose combines a saline oyster shell quality with menthol, wet stone and violet. Dense and sweet in the mouth, with superb intensity, cut and purity to the flavors of underripe pineapple, wet stone and white flowers. Perhaps best today on the stony, pure, very long finish. This very backward and penetrating wine calls for at least five or six years of aging.