1983 Dominus

Realm Cellars historic Napa Valley tasting.  This debut vintage of Christian Moueix’s venture in Napa Valley, initially with Robin Lail and her sister, daughters of John Daniel of Inglenook and owners of the original Napanook vineyard on the valley floor, was not received well. ‘Too Bordeaux, too dry and tannic’, was the usual criticism. Wanted to make wine in the early 1980s but didn’t like head-trained goblet vines. (Inglenook had been sold to Heublein in the mid 1960s and now belongs to Francis Ford Coppola.) Lots of Merlot was originally planted there – maybe 25% – but by the 1990s the Merlot influence had been reduced. Realm bought Merlot in the early 2000s from Dominus. I remember quizzing Christian Moueix about his thoughts on the Opus One Bordeaux/Napa joint venture just before he announced the Dominus project and being surprised by his cautious reply. Boris Champy of Burgundy made the wine in the late 1980s. Nowadays this wine tastes mellow, sweet and rich (thanks to that Merlot?). Good balance and a lovely current drink although it’s drying a little on the very end. (JR)