2009 Lirac Reine des Bois

Domaine de la Mordoree remains the reference point for how good Lirac can be. It is an appellation with tremendous potential, and a number of Chateauneuf du Pape estates are buying up vineyards in the appellation. The 2009 Lirac Cuvee de la Reine des Bois is another star from Christophe Delorme. Loads of kirsch, black currant and crushed rock notes along with a hint of spring flowers are all present in this dense purple, medium to full-bodied, delicious wine, which should drink nicely for 7-8 years. Christophe Delorme continues to fashion some of Chateauneuf du Pape’s most exciting wines (as well as Lirac, roses from Tavel, and sensational Cotes du Rhones). Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

An even split of 100% de-stemmed Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre, the 2009 Domaine de la Mordorée Lirac Cuvée de la Reine des Bois is aged 30% in oak barrels and the rest in stainless steel tank. It is an overall elegant, fresh wine that shines more for its balance and poise than for power and richness. Aromas of sweet black cherry and raspberry like fruits drive the aromatics, with supporting notes of crushed flowers, licorice, garrigue, and serious mineral and chalky nuances coming through more with air. These lead to a beautifully balanced wine that is medium to full bodied and possesses a polished, silky texture, fresh acidity, and ultra fine tannin structure that comes through more on the finish. Slightly understated now, I think this will benefit and fill in from 1-2 years in the cellar, and should drink well for 8-10 years. Balance, purity, and poise are the buzzwords here.

Bourboulenc, Picpoul, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Marsanne, Viognier, Roussanne. Big and perfumed but a little bit formless. Chief impression? Alcohol. Definitely needs food, and small servings. (JR)