1998 Vilmart Grand Cellier Rubis
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Tasting notes
The light-colored (almost indistinguishable from a “white” Champagne) 1998 Cuvee Grand Cellier Rubis exhibits delicate aromas of metal shavings and black cherries reminiscent of a demure Pernand-Vergelesses. Light to medium-bodied, it reveals minerals, dark berries, and stones in a bone dry, somewhat austere format. Readers should know that three other wines from Vilmart & Cie. were tasted for this report: two terrific non-vintage wines, the Cuvee Grand Cellier and the Cuvee Rubis (rose) that had no discernable markings to distinguish them from past or future bottlings, as well as a magnum of the 1992 Coeur de Cuvee, whose oaky, lactic, lemony, somewhat short personality left me in a quandary. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
Critic scores
Average Score
Josh Raynolds
Pierre Rovani
More reviews and scores
Very pale, copper-tinged pink, with a highly energetic mousse. Delicately perfumed but ineffable nuanced, with suggestions of cherry, redcurrant, wild strawberry, orange, vanilla bean and fresh mint. Remarkably fine and elegant for a barrel-fermented Champagne, showing a lightness of touch to the concentrated and utterly captivating flavors of red berry, buttery pastry and exotic flowers. The finish is precise and extremely long, showing superb concentration of fruit and jasmine accented by a tangy minerality. A masterpiece of complexity, precision and understatement.