2003 Les Pavots

(15.1% alcohol, 4.03 pH) Full medium ruby. Cassis, dark chocolate, licorice and flowers on the nose. Lush, broad and wonderfully ripe but classically dry, with terrific intensity of currant, chocolate, cedar and leather flavor. Distinctly suave wine, finishing with broad, dusty, building tannins and excellent length. And not at all flat despite the extravagant pH.

(64% cabernet sauvignon, 21% cabernet franc, 13% merlot and 2% petit verdot; 15% alcohol, with a pH of 4.03) Deep ruby. Brooding aromas of black cherry, raspberry and minerals. Large-scaled, thick and full, with blueberry, black cherry and tarry oak flavors lifted by a note of violet. Generous, superripe and dense. Finishes with huge, toothfurring tannins and a flavor of dark chocolate. Like the Esprit 2003, this comes across as less obviously sweet than the 2002 version. Has just enough grip and acidity to maintain its balance.

This wine has filled out very nicely. Nearly 3,000 cases were produced of this flowery, tar, camphor, incense, blackberry, black currant, espresso and chocolate-scented beauty. A blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, a whopping 22% Cabernet Franc and the rest Merlot and Petit Verdot, this full-bodied, opulent 2003 is just entering its plateau of full maturity. It is better at age ten than it was early in life from cask and post-bottling.||Tel. (707) 942-3200 Wine Advocate.June, 2013